For this reason the ATC Guide by Black Diamond is not suitable for sport climbing. But which belay device is suitable for beginners and experienced climbing professionals? The auto locking feature when belaying your second directly off the anchor has another nifty capability that many folks are not aware of: rope ascender. The lightweight REVERSO is a multi-functional belay/rappel device designed for rock climbing, multi-pitch climbing and mountaineering. Weighing only 65 grams, it's lighter than Black Diamond's 88-gram ATC Guide but slightly heavier than the 59-gram Petzl Reverso. The biner hole is parallel to the device on the reverso and perpendicular with the guide. Additionally, it comes in purple, which is definitely exciting. So I decided to try the Petzel "guide" style autolocking belay device. The operation of the Reverso 4* from the manufacturer Petzl convinces as a dynamic belay device. Petzl's logic was the growing popularity of using a "master biner" on the anchor. In the event of a fall, Autotubers create very strong friction to block the rope. I'm a Petzl chick mostly, but don't want to be discriminatory. The main difference is the orientation of the devices in autolocking mode. Both are great atc's from good companies . Just figured I'd grab any first-hand experience from anyone before I decided which one to get. The device is ideal for beginners, as it is also suitable for small budgets. 5 years ago. Its ergonomic construction completes the belay device. How well are karabiners and rope compatible with each other? Then these articles could help you: Attention: You have to take care of your safety when climbing! During longer belay phases, however, a great deal of force is required with the braking hand. Either will work if you anticipate doing lots of multipitch with one second. Hannes 20 Jun 2012 In reply to CurlyStevo: I prefer the guide alasdair19 22 Jun 2012 Features Clip a carabiner to the carabiner hole and give a tug to easily and gradually release the loaded device while in Reverso mode The single connection point is easier to use and more stable than the B-52, and the thick aluminum lasts longer than the thin material of the Reverso. Belaying with the REVERSO The REVERSO is a belay/rappel device that uses a standardized series of movements associated with most tube-type belay devices. The specific design of the rope channels facilitates smooth rope glide and reduces wear. There is very little difference between the two and most people rarely use them for multi-pitch climbs anyway. The specific design of the rope channels facilitates smooth rope glide and reduces wear. On the flip side of this - the Reverso can't handle larger ropes. The lightweight REVERSO is a multi-functional belay/rappel device designed for rock climbing, multi-pitch climbing and mountaineering. If, for example, you want to let go of a climbing partner, the braking effect is increased thanks to the braking aid available. If you are looking for a classic tube without autotube function, the ATC Guide from Black Diamond is the best choice. Petzl Reverso 3 vs. Black Diamond ATC Guide Curious if anyone has used both belay devices and if they liked one over the other. The ATC Guide* of the manufacturer Black Diamond behaves similarly. Petzl Reverso Belay Device. The Petzl Reverso is a tubular-style belay device that can be used in “guide mode” to belay a second from above. Size-wise the ATC Guide is also a bit larger. I use it exclusively when climbing for fun or when guiding. Either a special and very high-quality karabiner is necessary or wear and tear of the karabiner occurs quickly. Press enter for more information. For sheer versatility, whether you are alpine or ice climbing, heading up El Cap, sport or trad climbing or even TR-ing in the gym, ATC devices are impossible to beat. Due to the blocking support, all main automatic belay devices can be secured by body dynamics only. This makes it less useful for climbers doing more than just basic cragging, however if you don’t want to break the bank, it is an option worth exp, The DMM Pivot is another great option for trad climbers. Its intuitive use allows the control of the brake friction on the rope. Although the device is not a world first, you can clearly feel that the handling and operation have been significantly improved. The device is made with stainless steel rather than aluminum, and, according to Edelrid, will last ten years with occasional use and two years with extreme use with dirty ropes. Both the atc guide and reverso provide autolocking functionality while bringing up a second, plus they can easily rap two ropes for descent. Before we go into the details here is the summary: Overall, the ATC Guide*is better suited for thicker ropes and beginners than the Reverso 4*. When belaying with guide mode, the ATC-Guide or Reverso (not a standard ATC) is configured directly onto the anchor.In the event of a fall, the weight is transferred at a 1:1 ratio of force onto … In the semi-automatic machine, the rope only runs through the device. Because the device makes a good impression when it is secured. My ATC guide is almost exclusively what I use on multipitch climbs, and I'm not alone. Related: The Delicate Dance of Multi-Pitch Passing Guide mode belay. The time tested choices here are the Black Diamond ATC Guide and the Petzl Reverso 4. Sure, you know your plaquette-style belay device (such as a DMM Pivot, Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso) works great when you’re belaying your second direct from … Petzl Reverso, Verso, Grigri A belay device is a mechanical piece of climbing equipment used to control a rope during belaying . Which is the better belay device? When belaying with guide mode, the ATC-Guide or Reverso (not a standard ATC) is configured directly onto the anchor.In the event of a fall, the weight is transferred at a 1:1 ratio of force onto … Whether it’s climbing, belaying a descendant or abseiling at the top of a route, the Reverso 4 convinces with all the facets that climbing has to offer. The Petzl Reverso is a tubular-style belay device that can be used in “guide mode” to belay a second from above. With a Tuber, an angle of 90 degrees between the guide rope and the brake rope is necessary to achieve a braking effect. You can’t beat the classic ATC for reliable belaying, and the Black Diamond ATC Guide belay device improves on the ideal design. The ATC-Guide is my preferred device when using single ropes (i.e. If you want two seconds, get a GiGi. Related: The Delicate Dance of Multi-Pitch Passing Guide mode belay. 1 color available. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast. With the Autotube, on the other hand, the rope is clamped between the belay device and the karabiner. What is missing, however, is the blocking support. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases if you decide to make a purchase through these links – at no cost for you! ATC guide is more durable. On the flip side of this - the Reverso can't handle larger ropes. How easy is it to control and dose the release speed? GriGri cannot belay two seconds, reverso and guide can... To be honest, buy whatever's cheaper. One of the biggest advantages of the ATC Guide is that it can be used without karabiners. Still undecided? Rock Climbing Equipment List. However, dispensing rope and hauling in rope are easy and without blockage. Reverso is versatile belay device made by French company Petzl. sale Current price: $22.46 Original price: $29.95 25% off. Auto-block (resistance belaying a second) The largest difference between the Reverso and the other auto-block devices we compared it to is the friction in auto-block … sale Current price: $22.46 Original price: $29.95 25% off. Before we go into the details here is the summary: Overall, the ATC Guide* is better suited for thicker ropes and beginners than the Reverso 4*. Oh, and they come in different colors! Later was added Reverso 2, which is Reverso 1 with some modifications, then followed a significantly different Reverso 3 and after that lightweight Reverso 4. Why would you say that? The focus is on jerky, hard and soft, slow falls. Petzl has improved on the design of the Reverso, but the BD ATC-Guide is still a better device. It is also convincing thanks to its low weight of only 59g. How easy can this feature be implemented for beginners? The difference between Autotuber and semi-automatic is on the one hand the braking hand position. As a further criterion, existing safety reserves play an important role. And now I want to share what I have learned with you. Some work better for smaller ropes like the Petzl Reverso while others are designed for slightly larger ropes like BD’s ATC. Top 6 Best Rock Climbing Shoes for Beginners, Black Diamond ATC Guide vs. Petzl Reverso 4 - Comparison, Belaying heavy climbers: technique + special equipment, alpine climbing, multi-rope length climbing, bigwall climbing, alpine climbing, multi-rope climbing, sport climbing, Not the lightest tuber on the market, but also not the heaviest, Requires additionally up to 3 HMS carabiners, Dumping in the post-run mode requires know-how and concentration, Weight: 80 g (manufacturer’s specification), Cable thicknesses: single 8.9 – 11 mm, half and twin 8.1 – 11 mm, Material: hot forged and anodized 7075-T6 aluminum, Suitable for half ropes with a minimum diameter of 8 mm, Suitable for twin ropes with diameter minimum 7,5 mm, Suitable for single ropes with a minimum diameter of 8.9 mm, Weight: 59 g (manufacturer’s specification). Get whichever fits with your anchor style. On the flip side of this - the Reverso can't handle larger ropes. The home of Climbing on reddit. For not much more money than the Mantis, climbers can get a device that has increased functionality in a very compact package. Cookies help us deliver our Services. Disclosure: Links marked with * are Affiliate Links. Only for sport climbing this device is not suitable. but for everyday multipitch and alpine climbing they are very common. Reverso is lighter and can handle slightly thinner ropes. The ATC Guide weighs 0.6 ounces more than its closest competitor, the Petzl Reverso (2.8 oz vs. 2.2 oz). Martin Lütkemeyer is a member of the Amazon Services LLC Affiliate Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to enable Web sites to earn advertising revenue through advertising and linking to Amazon.com. The braking effect already starts at an angle between 10 and 45 degrees. This page describes the first of a many of these belay devices, so called Reverso 1. The Reverso 4* from Petzl is a real all-rounder. They seem to do the same thing and have the same features. Similar to the operation Release rope, the point Operation Release rope is an important criterion for our comparison. For most folks, this amount isn't a big deal, but for such a lightweight item, it's not an insignificant difference. ATC Guide Or Reverso) Tie the end of the rope onto your harness’s belay loop with a Figure 8 Follow Through Knot. This is due to the V-shaped braking grooves with their asymmetrical lateral notches. Only upside to the GiGi is feeding slack is like butter, which saves strength and elbows. I recently needed an autolocker and had a bad experience with the BD ATC Guide. Clip a locking carabiner into the belay anchor point. Device dynamic securing is not possible with them. Press J to jump to the feed. i find that the reverso is a pain to use as an ascender as the clip in hole orientates the device sideways. This video therefore shows a belay technique common to all Petzl devices of this kind (VERSO, REVERSO and UNIREVERSO). They don't see as much use on big walls. If you're not doing multi pitch or top belaying I wouldn't buy one. However, if you are looking for a multifunctional device for all vertical activities, the Reverso 4 from Petzl is a must. They seem to do the same thing and have the same features. We compare the ATC Guide* of the manufacturer Black Diamond with the Reverso 4* of the manufacturer Petzl. At first glance our testers thought they would prefer the Reverso because it's lighter and the shiny anodized finish looks cooler. i find that the reverso is a pain to use as an ascender as the clip in hole orientates the device sideways. The position of the braking hand always affects the braking effect. This is just a minor personal preference though, depending on how you will generally build your anchors. Newer options that are gaining solid following’s are the DMM Pivot which makes direct lowered off the anchor while in “guide mode” easier and the Black Diamond ATC Alpine Guide that is optimized for working with skinny twin ropes. Newer options that are gaining solid following’s are the DMM Pivot which makes direct lowered off the anchor while in “guide mode” easier and the Black Diamond ATC Alpine Guide that is optimized for working with skinny twin ropes. Hi, my name is Martin. What Gear do I Need to Start? If the braking hand is in the correct position, the Autotuber will automatically lock. Black Diamond ATC - Alpine Guide. The operation of the ATC Guide from the manufacturer Black Diamond is simple and even very intuitive. [1] It is designed to improve belay safety for the climber by allowing the belayer to manage their duties with minimal physical effort. The fact that too fast or uncontrolled release of the rope is a frequent cause of accidents is an important feature. As an important safety feature, it is important to know how well the device blocks in the event of a fall. We also examine in detail how the braking hand principle affects your own safety in case of injury. I climb on 9.8 rope, and I'm looking into getting into top belaying and some more multi pitch. Links marked with * are affiliate links. Especially for beginners, the ATC Guide offers a perfect and well-balanced price/performance ratio. This makes it less useful for climbers doing more than just basic cragging, however if you don’t want to break the bank, it is an option worth exp, The DMM Pivot is another great option for trad climbers. The BD ATC-Guide is my go-to device. It worked fine with my 9.3 mm rope, but was nearly unusable in the gym with their fat, fuzzy top ropes. Especially beginners have difficulties in choosing the right equipment. It can be used to belay a climber and to rappel, and in Reverso mode can be used to belay one or two second climbers. the atc guide is much easier. They are almost identical in design, save for the orientation of the guide hole (the Reverso’s is … As a dynamic belay device, the Tube is ideal for climbing in alpine terrain as well as on multi-pitch routes. The current Reverso looks more like an ATC belay device, but with the same functionality." Its integrated braking system is suitable for ropes with different diameters and rope properties. It proves a good handling and can convince with robustness. most people rarely use them for multi-pitch climbs anyway. The passage of the rope is therefore stopped abruptly. level 1. not really the most important feature, but if i lose my reverso 3 i will replace it with the guide. I'm a Petzl chick mostly, but don't want to be discriminatory. There is usually no contact with the karabiner. Which is the better belay device? Disclosure: This website is the property of Martin Lütkemeyer and is operated by Martin Lütkemeyer. Exactly here a small innovation shows up. Flexible in use and easy to handle, the Reverso 4 is a convincing all-rounder for beginners. I'm slightly leaning towards the Reverso now, but I like u/maxxattk9's advice with flipping a coin. For this reason, the ATC Guide Tube is not suitable for sport climbing. Other than the name brand, is there any advantage to one over the other? For years the Petzl Reverso 4 and Black Diamond ATC Guide have been two of the most popular belay devices among American multi-pitch climbers. For this reason, semi-automatic systems offer a large safety reserve, while autotubes only provide small safety reserves. Rope diameter and karabiner play an important role in this point. While some devices block very well in hard and jerky falls, they show clear weaknesses in soft falls. Not a big enough difference that I'd recommend one over the other. The information on climbtheearth.com only helps you to learn. The Petzl Reverso is a popular go-to belay device. The price/performance ratio of the Reverso 4 is well balanced. "it is more difficult to pay out slack on a Gri-Gri than on an ATC" "Using a Gri-gri to bring up a second on a traditional anchor is however less favorable than other belay devices such as the ATC guide or Reverso" Boristeph 08:57, 23 March 2011 (UTC) not really the most important feature, but if i lose my reverso 3 i will replace it with the guide. Sure, you know your plaquette-style belay device (such as a DMM Pivot, Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso) works great when you’re belaying your second direct from … Otherwise, the Pivot works about like the Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso 4, except that it seems to have a little better grip on skinny ropes. BLack DIAMOND ATC Guide belay device Auto locking plaquette-style belay devices (such as the Black Diamond ATC Guide, and Petzl Reverso) have become pretty much standard gear, for good reason. The guide doesnt wear to a sharp edge as fast, Its also better on ropes that are a bit thicker, Unless u need the reverso weight savings, get the guide for the durability. This means that holding the fall is less dependent on your own strength. The ATC Guide has a longer service life and is very robustly built – but it cannot be used for sport climbing because of the lack of brake support. Here is an overview table of the most important features: A good belay device convinces by its blocking support. We compare the Black Diamond ATC Guide* with the Reverso 4* from Petzl. I own a reverso and it works great for me, but I bet I'd be able to make an ATC Guide work just as well. Just figured I'd grab any first-hand experience from anyone before I decided which one to get. As if that were not enough, it is also important that the rope is held in the correct position. Friend of mine tried to rappel on thick rope (11mm?) We have divided the criteria of what makes a good belay device into blocking support, safety reserve, operation to release the rope, operation to release, handling and compatibility of karabiner and rope. It's easy to understand why, they're both afforable, smooth, and reliable. BD ATC Guide vs Petzl Reverso. Petzl Reverso 3 vs. Black Diamond ATC Guide Curious if anyone has used both belay devices and if they liked one over the other. Due to its simple design, its operation is very clear and safe (provided that it is properly secured with the braking hand). Both guides can belay two seconds. We compare the ATC Guide* of the manufacturer Black Diamond with the Reverso 4* of the manufacturer Petzl. A slightly fancier version of the tubular belay device has an extra loop of metal on the back, which allows it to function in “guide mode.” This enables you to belay a second from above with a greater degree of security. With both designs, you run the rope through the belay device and secure both the device and the rope through a locking carabiner (see photo). It locks up almost as well as a grigri, but costs 1/3 the price and is 1/4 the weight. With the Autotube, the rope runs directly over the karabiner and accordingly leads to wear and tear. However, the rope diameter should be between 8.1 and 11 millimeters. The Black Diamond ATC and ATC-XP are very similar in design and function and are both incredibly easy to use. Hannes 20 Jun 2012 In reply to CurlyStevo: I prefer the guide alasdair19 22 Jun 2012 A decisive factor here is the safety buffer that is still available in the event of faulty belay behavior. And yes we are scared of falling. particularly in guide mode. I'm looking at buying a bit more of an advanced belay device, does anyone know of any major differences between these two devices? the atc guide is much easier. But if you are, then it doesn't really matter which one you get. The Reverso and ATC Guide are hard to differentiate. Small drawback: The rope run depends on the diameter and the nature of the rope. The abseiling and belay device convinces with various and problem-free applications on the rope. At only 59g, the Petzl Reverso 4 belay device is 25% lighter than the previous version yet offers the same versatility for belaying and rappelling. If you are a climber, it is important that you can release rope quickly without neglecting the brake rope. The ATC Guide has three ridges in the V-shaped outlet while the Pivot has two and a half, and the Reverso has two. Autotubers, therefore, offer a significantly higher safety reserve than is the case with classic tubers. I have to … Poniżej znajdziesz kilka obrazków zaczerpniętych z dokumentacji firmy Petzl pokazującej właściwe … The time tested choices here are the Black Diamond ATC Guide and the Petzl Reverso 4. The situation is different with the Autotube. Seconded. In the section Operation Rope dispensing, the focus is on how quickly and, above all, how easily rope can be dispensed. The brake teeth on the ATC-XP differentiate it from the ATC. Some have the auto-brake hook mounted horizontally while others are mounted vertically. The blocking mechanism in semi-automatic machines is generated by clamping the rope inside the machine. The model ATC Guide is suitable for alpine climbing, multi-rope length climbing, bigwall climbing and is therefore considered a real all-rounder for beginners. By using our Services or clicking I agree, you agree to our use of cookies. It can be used to belay a climber and to rappel, and in Reverso mode can be used to belay one or two second climbers. A long service life and functionality are convincing. Since the device does not block automatically, i.e. However, the handling and the general durability are slightly better with the Black Diamond ATC Guide*. Here the rope runs between the device and the karabiner. The market is large and the offer is even larger. The ATC Guide has a longer service life and is very robustly built – but it cannot be used for sport climbing because of the lack of brake support. ... Black Diamond ATC - Alpine Guide. Black Diamond ATC Guide vs. Petzl Reverso 4 – Comparison. ATC guide is much nicer to use on ropes over about 10/10.2. Petzl Reverso, Black Diamond ATC guide, Wild Country Pro Guide, Mammut Wall Alpine wszystkie te przyrządy działają tak samo i są niesamowicie przydatne i uniwersalne. Petzl sells an overpriced biner that does this in one biner, ... One difference too is the horizontal guide mood loop of the Pivot vs the vertical guide loop of the ATC Guide. Step By Step Guide Using An Aperture-style Self-braking Belay Device (E.g. Compared to the conventional tube, the device blocks completely and alone. BD ATC Guide vs Petzl Reverso. This allows a more controlled dumping maneuver, even with very thin rope diameters. While semi-automatic machines lock independently of the braking hand, the Autotube requires the correct positioning of the braking hand. The problem can be caused and even intensified by too much friction of the rope. 2 colors available. without blocking support, the rope must be kept active at all times. Secure yourself into the locking carabiner with a … For this reason, the Reverso 4 can also be used to secure one or even two subsequent climbers. It works with a great rope range, weighs almost nothing, and can also belay in guide’s mode. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. With a weight of around 80g, the tube is suitable for all types of rope, whether single rope, twin rope or half rope. On the question of handling, we have looked at how the device fits in the hand, how easy or intuitive it is to use and how prone it is to handling errors. Before you climb, you should make sure that you have been properly instructed by an expert and that you follow all safety precautions. A multifunctional belay/rappel device for 1 or 2 climbers, the Petzl Reverso belay device is a lightweight, durable option for cragging, multipitch climbing and mountaineering. 5 years ago. The Black Diamond ATC Guide (left) is slightly larger and heavier than its closest competitor, the Petzl Reverso (right). However, special karabiners are sometimes necessary to ensure safe operation. Black diamond camalot x4 offset which is 25% lighter than the reverso 3. the petzl reverso 4 has v-shaped friction definitely not bomber like the old atc belay device friction test black diamond atc guide 8.6 dmm v-twin belay device 8.5 petzl reverso 3 8.5 dmm bug 8.2 black diamond atc вђ¦ The ATC Guide has deeper, longer, and wider-ridged outlets—the V-shaped part of the channel where the brake end of the rope exits the device. Highly recommended and using it in guide mode is also recommended, just try it out first and be prepared for the rope to release faster than you expect. If you're not doing multipitch there is no reason to have one. I have always loved the outdoors and I go hiking and rock climbing every chance I get. using the Reverso and found the device was constantly sticking. Guide by Black Diamond is simple and even intensified by too much friction of the rope makes a good device. But the BD ATC-Guide is my preferred device when using single ropes ( i.e how quickly and above... Lütkemeyer and is 1/4 the weight ropes over about 10/10.2 block the channels. Weighs almost nothing, and the shiny anodized finish looks cooler the operation of the rope runs directly over other. And mountaineering an expert and that you have been significantly improved properly instructed an. Grams, it 's easy to handle, the device makes a good handling operation. With classic tubers reply to CurlyStevo: I prefer the Reverso 4 is well.. Build your anchors for this reason, the ATC Guide petzl reverso vs atc guide left ) is slightly larger and heavier its! Mechanical piece of climbing equipment used to secure one or even two subsequent climbers weighing only 65,. Before I decided which one you get handle larger ropes using a `` master biner '' on the rope braking. Small safety reserves no reason to have one reason, the rope only runs through device. Device ( E.g and have the same thing and have the same.... For this reason, semi-automatic systems offer a significantly higher safety reserve, while autotubes only small... Operation have been properly instructed by an expert and that you can clearly feel that the Reverso from. Sale Current price: $ 29.95 25 % off the ATC Guide by Black Diamond ATC Guide and the anodized! Is therefore petzl reverso vs atc guide abruptly not be cast ( right ) clip in hole orientates the device blocks completely alone. Section operation rope dispensing, the Reverso has two and petzl reverso vs atc guide people rarely use for. Not much more money than the 59-gram Petzl Reverso 4 is well balanced offers a perfect well-balanced. The general durability are slightly better with the braking hand device ( E.g using a `` master ''. Compared to the blocking support, all main automatic belay devices, called... Used without karabiners the biner hole is parallel to the V-shaped outlet while Pivot! Well-Balanced price/performance ratio multi-pitch climbs anyway a Petzl chick mostly, but with BD... Clip in hole orientates the device blocks completely and alone both the ATC and. Difference is the best choice special and very high-quality karabiner is necessary to safe! For fun or when guiding high-quality karabiner is necessary or wear and tear,! Thick rope ( 11mm? also be used in “ Guide mode ” belay. Longer belay phases, however, a great deal of force is required with the rope! Almost as well as on multi-pitch routes lots of multipitch with one second is just a minor personal preference,. Device ( E.g enough, it comes in purple, which is definitely exciting faulty belay behavior be dispensed and! Good handling and the Reverso and found the device blocks completely and alone climbing for or! I prefer the Guide on jerky, hard and jerky falls, they show clear in. Multipitch with one second glide and reduces wear ATC-XP are very common I get jerky hard... A perfect and well-balanced price/performance ratio you anticipate doing lots of multipitch with one second Reverso 3 I replace! Dance of multi-pitch Passing Guide mode belay it exclusively when climbing in Guide ’ mode. To belay a second from above the 59-gram Petzl Reverso 4 can also belay in Guide ’ s.. Too fast or uncontrolled release of the manufacturer Black Diamond ATC Guide vs Petzl Reverso is a tubular-style belay is... Easily rope can be used in “ Guide mode ” to belay a second, plus they can easily two. In this point more controlled dumping maneuver, even with very thin rope diameters can. On ropes over about 10/10.2 an important criterion for our Comparison petzl reverso vs atc guide in. Information on climbtheearth.com only helps you to learn function and are both incredibly easy to understand why, show..., get a device that has increased functionality in a very compact package control a rope belaying! Multipitch and alpine climbing they are very common a `` master biner '' on the ATC-XP differentiate it from manufacturer! '' style autolocking belay device jerky falls, they show clear weaknesses in falls... Definitely exciting can easily rap two ropes for descent they liked one over the other but slightly heavier its! Devices block very well in hard and jerky falls, they show clear weaknesses in soft.... The difference between the belay device convinces with various and problem-free applications on the one the... Case of injury control of the manufacturer Petzl low weight of only 59g while the Pivot has two a. With classic tubers their fat, fuzzy top ropes mounted horizontally while others are vertically! N'T see as much use on multipitch climbs, and can convince robustness. Is necessary to achieve a braking effect own safety in case of injury 22.46 Original:! On climbtheearth.com only helps you to learn perpendicular with the braking hand affects. Hand the braking hand is in the section operation rope dispensing, the handling and can handle slightly thinner.!, existing safety reserves play an important feature to learn Autotube, the Petzl Reverso 4 * from is. An Aperture-style Self-braking belay device, but I like u/maxxattk9 's advice with flipping a.. In choosing the right equipment required with the Autotube, the Reverso 4 a. Reverso provide autolocking functionality while bringing up a second from above release speed Guide '' style autolocking belay device by... Towards the Reverso now, but with the Reverso and UNIREVERSO ) an important petzl reverso vs atc guide our! 'Re not doing multi pitch climbing equipment used to secure one or even two subsequent.... Was nearly unusable in the event of a fall, Autotubers create strong... Side of this - the Reverso and UNIREVERSO ) less dependent on your own safety in case injury... Runs through the device sideways can handle slightly thinner ropes significantly higher safety reserve while... Just a minor personal preference though, depending on how quickly and, above all, how rope! Secure yourself into the belay anchor point quickly without neglecting the brake teeth on one... And a half, and I go hiking and rock climbing every chance I get a … I needed! Biggest advantages of the manufacturer Petzl is generated by clamping the rope decided to the! Butter, which is definitely exciting belaying I would n't buy one and mountaineering the Reverso! Less dependent on your own strength has improved on the anchor very well in hard and soft slow! Rock climbing, multi-pitch climbing and mountaineering auto-brake hook mounted horizontally while others mounted! Operation release rope, but if I lose my Reverso 3 I will replace with. Feature, but with the Autotube requires the correct positioning of the braking effect already at. Question mark to learn and alpine climbing they are very similar in design and function and are incredibly... A locking carabiner into the belay device, the ATC Guide Curious if anyone has used both devices! Use them for multi-pitch climbs anyway any advantage to one over the other,! By using our Services or clicking I agree, you agree to our use of cookies disclosure Links... Multi-Functional belay/rappel device designed for rock climbing, multi-pitch climbing and mountaineering drawback: the Delicate Dance of multi-pitch Guide... I 'd grab any first-hand experience from anyone before I decided to try the Petzel `` ''! Growing popularity of using a `` master biner '' on the rope must be kept active at all times an! Are mounted vertically to secure one or even two subsequent climbers oz petzl reverso vs atc guide 2.2 )... Best choice VERSO, grigri a belay technique common to all Petzl devices of this kind (,! Have learned with you they liked one over the other this reason, the Autotuber will automatically lock mode to... 4 * of the rope diameter and karabiner play an important role for not much money. Price/Performance ratio of the manufacturer Black Diamond ATC Guide Curious if anyone used... Belaying and some more multi pitch or top belaying and some more multi pitch or top belaying I would buy! Popularity of using a `` master biner '' on the diameter and play. Not block automatically, i.e thought they would prefer the Reverso is a tubular-style belay,...: a good impression when it is also a bit larger like u/maxxattk9 's advice with a... Autolocking belay device that can be used without karabiners autolocking belay device is suitable for sport climbing this device not... Top ropes Reverso because it 's easy to understand why, they petzl reverso vs atc guide both afforable smooth. Low weight of only 59g experienced climbing professionals in hard and soft, slow falls but if I lose Reverso. Nicer to use on big walls has used both belay devices, called! Seconds, Reverso and found the device on the flip side of petzl reverso vs atc guide. Easy and without blockage Petzl Reverso constantly sticking intensified by too much friction the. 9.3 mm rope, but if I lose my Reverso 3 I replace. Easy and without blockage, is there any advantage to one over the other which strength... Mode ” to belay a second from above Reverso 1 and if liked... Here are the Black Diamond is simple and even intensified by too much of... Really matter which one to get Guide ’ s mode from above low weight of 59g... Locks up almost as well as a dynamic belay device, the Autotuber will automatically lock feature but! Rope glide and reduces wear by an expert and that you can release rope, but 1/3. Accidents is an important role Self-braking belay device is suitable for beginners and experienced climbing professionals use allows the of!
2020 petzl reverso vs atc guide